As we walked into the Arctic tundra, the mountain slopes rose above us, and the lake came into view. We trekked a few kilometers carrying our equipment in backpacks, except for the rubber dinghy, which had thankfully been left lakeside by a group of students working in the area.

According to fishers, ice now forms later and melts earlier on Lake Kilpisjärvi. The formation of ice has also changed: there is less clear ice than before.